Let’s talk about the infamous HEMI tick. If you drive a 5.7L, you probably already know the sound. Most guys immediately panic and think their lifters are chewing up the camshaft. But more often than not? It’s just the factory exhaust manifold bolts snapping off flush with the aluminum cylinder head due to thermal expansion.
I’ve pulled dozens of these warped cast-iron logs off over the years. It’s a known design flaw, and replacing them with a proper set of tubular headers is the permanent fix. But honestly, pulling those old manifolds is a headache nobody wants to deal with. I'm going to walk you through how to do this install without destroying your cylinder heads or spending your Sunday drilling out broken bolts against the firewall.
The Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF)
- Can you do this at home? Yes, if you have patience, a decent floor jack, and intermediate wrenching skills. Expect it to take 6-8 hours.
- How do you actually prevent broken bolts? It comes down to thermal cycling and chemical penetration. If your truck has over 60,000 miles, soak the bolts in Kroil or PB Blaster for 24 hours prior. Do NOT use an impact wrench on removal.
- Will it throw a CEL (Check Engine Light)? Yes. Installing long tubes moves the O2 sensors further downstream. You will need O2 sensor extensions and a custom tune to optimize the air/fuel ratio and clear the codes.
- What's the real power gain? On the dyno, a properly tuned 5.7 with long tubes and a cold air intake typically puts down an extra 22-28 whp (wheel horsepower) and a massive bump in mid-range torque.
Preparation: Getting Your 5.7 HEMI Ready for Surgery
Don't just dive in with a socket set. Proper prep saves you hours of blood and sweat later.
Start with the vehicle on the ground. Pop the hood. Honestly, a small step ladder is a valuable tool here, especially if you're working on a lifted Ram. First rule of exhaust work: disconnect the negative battery terminal. You'll be working dangerously close to the starter wiring on the passenger side.
Remove the factory intake air box and the tube routing to the throttle body. Get them completely out of the way. Now, look at the driver's side. See that steering shaft? Remove the steering shaft bolt and pull the shaft away. Do not skip this. Trying to weave a massive header around a connected steering shaft is a rookie mistake that will cost you an hour of pure frustration.
Move around to the passenger wheel well. Pull the inner plastic fender liner completely out. Trust me on this. It takes five minutes and gives you a straight, unobstructed shot at the manifold bolts that you simply cannot reach from the top or bottom.
The Mechanic’s Secret: How to Avoid Broken Exhaust Manifold Bolts
The factory bolts are Grade 8, but constant heat cycling against an aluminum head makes them brittle. I've spent too many hours drilling out broken bolts near the firewall because I rushed it with an impact gun. Don't do that. Take your time, soak them overnight, and stick to hand tools.
- Soak Them Early: 24 hours before you touch a wrench, douse every single manifold bolt in PB Blaster, Kroil, or a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Let it sit overnight.
- Heat Cycles: If the truck still runs, start it up for 3 minutes to get the manifolds warm (not scalding hot, just warm to the touch), then spray them again. The heat draws the penetrating fluid into the threads.
- Hand Tools Only: Use a 6-point socket (not a 12-point, you will round them off) and a standard ratchet. Apply smooth, steady pressure. If it binds, tighten it a hair, spray it again, and slowly back it out. Work it back and forth.
Step-by-Step: Removing the Factory Manifolds & Y-Pipe
Alright, it’s time to get the rig in the air. Use heavy-duty jack stands. Once you're underneath, support the transmission with a jack. If you have a 4WD model, drop the skid plate. Remove the nuts and bolts from the transmission crossmember and pull the crossmember out to give your exhaust some drop room.
Remove the nuts attaching the cat-back exhaust to the Y-pipe. Grab a crowbar or a large flathead screwdriver and push the cat-back pipe back about 2 inches to clear the flanges.
Before you unbolt the Y-pipe from the manifolds, disconnect the four O2 sensor harnesses from the factory wiring. Do not twist the wires. Unbolt the Y-Pipe at the driver and passenger side factory manifolds and wrestle it out of there. Re-install the factory crossmember temporarily so your transmission isn't hanging on the jack all day.
Lower the trans jack, get back into the wheel wells, and finish removing the factory exhaust manifold bolts. Pull the old cast iron logs out.
Installing Your New 5.7 HEMI Long Tube Headers
Surface prep is everything. Take a clean rag, some brake cleaner or degreaser, and wipe the cylinder head mating surfaces spotless.
When it comes to putting the new parts on, flange thickness is everything. The whole reason the factory cast manifolds failed is that they warped under heat. If you bolt on a cheap aftermarket header with a thin flange, you'll be fixing another exhaust leak in six months.
This is exactly why we run and recommend Flashark 5.7 HEMI long tube headers. They use a thick, CNC-machined flange and mandrel-bent 304 stainless steel that handles thermal expansion way better than the factory setup.
Short & Long Tube Headers for 09-18 RAM 1500 Hemi 5.7L
- Permanent Fix: Prevents Hemi tick & manifold warping.
- Max Power: Unlocks +15-30 HP over restricted factory exhaust.
View Fitment & Specs
Specs: 201 Stainless Steel, Mounting Hardware Included. Free 3-6 Day Shipping.
Plus, the routing is actually chassis-specific. You can't just slap truck headers on a car—if you're in an LX-platform, you need the right Challenger/Charger/300C specific headers so you aren't bashing your steering shaft to make them fit.
Long Tube Headers for 05-11 Challenger/Charger/300C 5.7/6.1L
- Chassis Specific: Clears LX-platform steering shafts perfectly.
- 8-2 Piping Design: Delivers a deep muscle car roar & top-end HP.
View Fitment & Specs
Specs: 3" Outlet, 7/16" Head Flange. Note: Bolts not included.
| Spec / Metric | Factory Cast Manifolds (OEM) | Flashark Long Tube Headers |
|---|---|---|
| Material | Heavy Cast Iron (Prone to cracking & warping) | Mandrel-Bent 304 Stainless Steel |
| Flange Thickness | Factory standard (Prone to distortion) | 3/8" Thick CNC Machined (Anti-warp) |
| Primary Tube Size | N/A (Restrictive log design) | 1 3/4" or 1 7/8" (Optimized for flow) |
| Exhaust Scavenging | Extremely Poor | Excellent (Equal length primaries) |
| Expected HP Gain | Baseline | +20 to +30 WHP (with proper tune) |
| Est. Install Time | N/A | 6 - 8 Hours (DIY) / 4 - 5 Hours (Shop) |
Torque Specs, Heat Management, and Reassembly
Slide the headers into place from underneath or through the wheel well (depending on your chassis). Thread all bolts in by hand first to ensure you don't cross-thread the aluminum head.
Now, torque them down. The factory spec is around 18-20 ft-lbs. Honestly, you aren't getting a torque wrench on half of these bolts due to the pipe bends. Use a standard wrench and your best judgment—snug them down from the inside radiating outward. TIGHT, but don't snap them.
Drop the vehicle down and re-install the dipstick tube by fishing it through the primary tubes on the driver's side. Use the supplied spacer and longer bolt if your kit included one.
On the passenger side, those heater hoses run dangerously close to the hot primaries. Wrap them with high-temp heat tape and use heavy-duty zip ties to pull them tight against the coil packs, far away from the exhaust.
Reverse your teardown steps. Reinstall the new mid-pipes, connect the O2 sensors (using your extensions), bolt up the crossmember, connect the steering shaft, and finally, hook the battery back up.
The Final Golden Rule: Heat cycle the engine. Start it up, check for leaks, let it get to operating temp, and shut it down. After 100 miles of driving, you must get back in there and retorque every single header bolt. The gaskets will compress, and if you don't retighten them, you'll be dealing with a ticking exhaust leak all over again.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Q1: Do I need a custom tune after installing these?
A: Absolutely. Because the O2 sensors are relocated further downstream, your ECU will read the exhaust flow incorrectly and throw a Check Engine Light (CEL). A proper tune recalibrates the air/fuel ratio and unlocks the actual horsepower you just paid for.
Q2: How much horsepower can I expect to gain?
A: On a dyno, bolting these on with a high-flow mid-pipe and a tune usually nets you an honest 20 to 30 wheel horsepower (whp), along with a massive bump in low-end torque.
Q3: Will this upgrade fix the infamous ticking sound?
A: If your tick is caused by a broken exhaust manifold bolt (which accounts for the vast majority of these cases), then yes, upgrading your setup and replacing the hardware will completely eliminate the noise.
Q4: Should I go with shorty or long tube headers?
A: Shorties are easier to install and often bolt right up to the factory mid-pipes, making them great for basic replacements. However, if you want maximum mid-to-high RPM power and a much deeper, aggressive exhaust note, long tubes are the way to go.
Q5: How long does this job take on a Ram 1500?
A: A seasoned mechanic on a lift can knock it out in 4 to 6 hours. If you are a DIYer working on your back with jack stands, plan for an entire weekend, especially if you have to fight stubborn bolts.
Q6: Can I do the install without pulling the motor?
A: Yes. On both the trucks and the LX-platform cars, you don't need to lift the engine. Removing the inner fender liners and unbolting the steering shaft provides enough clearance to slide them in.
Q7: What’s the correct torque spec for the manifold bolts?
A: The factory specification is generally 18 to 20 ft-lbs. It’s crucial to tighten them evenly—start from the center bolts and work your way outward to ensure the gasket seats perfectly.
Q8: Will it make my truck significantly louder?
A: Definitely. The thick cast-iron logs muffle a lot of engine noise. Switching to stainless steel tubes will give your V8 a raw, aggressive, and much deeper rumble.
Q9: Why do the factory bolts break in the first place?
A: It's a metallurgy issue. The aluminum cylinder head expands and contracts at a different rate than the thick iron manifold. This constant thermal shifting places immense shear stress on the rearmost steel bolts, eventually snapping them.
Q10: Do I need O2 sensor extensions?
A: Yes. The collector sits much further back under the chassis than the stock setup. The factory wiring won't reach, so plug-and-play extension harnesses are required.
