If you own a 2009-2018 RAM 1500 (or the 2019-2024 RAM Classic), you know the sound. You start the truck on a cold morning, and it sounds like there’s a playing card stuck in your fan spokes. Tick. Tick. Tick.
Five minutes later, the engine warms up, the metal expands, and the noise vanishes. You tell yourself it’s fine. It’s not.
I’ve been wrenching on trucks for 15 years, and I see at least three RAMs a month with this issue. The bad news? You have an exhaust leak caused by snapped manifold bolts. The good news? You don’t need a new engine—you simply need to upgrade to high-quality exhaust headers to stop the cycle of failure.
Before you buy parts, verify the noise.
- Exhaust Manifold Leak: Loud on cold start, goes away/gets quieter when the engine reaches operating temp (approx. 5-10 mins). Safe to drive short-term.
- Lifter Failure ("The Death Rattle"): Metallic tapping that never goes away, even when hot. Speeds up with RPMs. Do not drive. You need a cam and lifter job, not headers.
The Engineering Flaw: Why Stock Manifolds Snap Bolts
The 5.7L Hemi uses aluminum cylinder heads and cast iron exhaust manifolds. This is where the physics fight starts.
Aluminum heats up and expands rapidly. Cast iron heats up slowly and expands less. Every time you drive, these two metals are fighting a tug-of-war. The factory "log-style" manifold is rigid; it doesn't flex. So, all that shear force gets transferred to the weakest link: the bolts.
Eventually, the rear bolts (Cylinders 7 and 8) shear off inside the head.
Fig 1. Typical failure on Cyl 7/8. The manifold warped, snapping the heads off the bolts.
We pulled the 'new' manifold off, and it was already warped by 3mm. He paid for the job twice because he replaced a flawed part with the same flawed design. Don't be that guy."
The Solution: Stainless Steel Headers
The permanent fix isn't a new cast iron manifold; it's changing the material to Stainless Steel.
This is where parts like the Flashark Short/Long Tube Headers for 2009-2018 Dodge Ram 5.7L Hemi come into play. Unlike a solid iron log, these headers use individual primary tubes that flex slightly with heat cycles. This stress relief means the bolts stay intact, and the flange stays flat.
Shorty Headers vs. Long Tube: What Do You Need?
Don't overcomplicate this. Here is the breakdown based on how you use your truck:
- 🔧 Shorty Headers: These are a direct bolt-on replacement. They connect to your factory Y-Pipe and catalytic converters.
Verdict: Best for daily drivers who want to fix the tick, keep the Check Engine Light (CEL) off without tuning, and pass inspection easily. - 🔧 Long Tube Headers: These delete the primary cats or require a custom Y-Pipe.
Verdict: Only for guys chasing horsepower (adds 20-30HP with a tune). Warning: You WILL need a custom ECU tune to remove the O2 sensor codes. If you don't tune it, your dash will light up like a Christmas tree.
Real Talk: Installation & "Gotchas"
If you are DIY-ing this or handing parts to a mechanic, here are the three things that will make or break this job. Most SEO articles skip this, but this is what matters in the garage.
1. The Gasket is Everything
Do not use the cheap paper gaskets that come with some budget header kits. They will burn out in 5,000 miles. You need a Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) gasket (like the OEM Mopar ones) or a thick graphite gasket like Remflex if the surface is slightly uneven. An MLS gasket is the industry standard for a reason.
2. Bolt Extraction is the Hard Part
Getting the old manifold off is easy. Getting the broken stud out of the cylinder head is the nightmare. You often have to weld a nut to the broken stud or use a right-angle drill in a very tight space (through the wheel well).
My advice: If you snap a bolt flush with the head and don't have a welder or experience extracting studs, stop. Call a pro. It’s cheaper to pay for 2 hours of labor than a new cylinder head."
3. Upgrade Your Hardware
Don't use the factory bolts again. I highly recommend upgrading to Stage 8 Locking Bolts or at least high-grade ARP hardware. Stage 8 bolts have a locking tab that physically prevents the bolt from backing out, no matter how much vibration there is.
Ready to Fix It Once and For All?
Don't wait until the exhaust leak damages your valves or melts a wiring harness. The Flashark Stainless Headers are the cost-effective solution to the Hemi Tick.
Fits: 2009-2018 RAM 1500 & 2019-2024 RAM 1500 "Classic" (5.7L Hemi)
Shop Flashark RAM 1500 HeadersFAQ: Common Questions From The Shop
Q1: Will installing aftermarket headers void my factory warranty?
A1: This is the most common fear. Legally, under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act in the US, a dealer cannot void your entire vehicle's warranty just because you installed an aftermarket part. They can only deny a claim if they can prove the header caused the specific failure (e.g., if you install headers and your radio breaks, your radio is still covered). However, the warranty on the exhaust manifolds themselves is obviously gone once you remove them. If you are worried, Shorty Headers are generally "dealer-friendly" compared to Long Tubes.
Q2: Do I strictly need an ECU tune after installing headers?
A2: It depends on which version you buy:
Shorty Headers: generally NO. Since you are keeping the factory catalytic converters and O2 sensor locations, the truck usually adapts just fine.
Long Tube Headers: YES, absolutely. Long tubes move the O2 sensors further downstream and often remove the primary cats. Without a custom tune (like HP Tuners or DiabloSport), you will get a "Check Engine Light" (Code P0420/P0430) immediately, and the truck may run rich.
Q3: How difficult is the installation for a DIYer?
A3: I'll be honest: On a scale of 1-10, this is a 7 or 8. The passenger side is tight, but doable. The driver's side is a headache because of the steering shaft, brake lines, and the oil dipstick tube.
Pro Tip: Soak your old manifold bolts in penetrating oil (like PB Blaster or Kroil) every night for 3 days before you start the job. If a bolt feels spongy when turning, stop—heat it up with a torch before you snap it.
Q4: Should I use the gaskets included in the box?
A4: In my shop, I always recommend upgrading. While included gaskets are okay for a budget fix, nothing beats the OEM Mopar Multi-Layer Steel (MLS) gaskets or Remflex graphite gaskets for longevity. Since labor is the hardest part of this job, spend the extra $30 on premium gaskets so you never have to do it again.
Q5: Why does the Hemi Tick sometimes sound like it's coming from under the truck?
A5: Sound travels. When the manifold warps, it usually leaks at the rear cylinders (7 and 8), which are tucked right up against the firewall. The ticking sound often bounces off the firewall and down the transmission tunnel, making some drivers think it's a transmission issue or a loose heat shield. If it ticks cold and goes away hot, 99% of the time it's that manifold.
