Cold Air Intake Kit for 1994–2001 Acura Integra RS/LS/GS/SE/GS-R 1.8L B18 DOHC

This intake fits both the DC2 (3-door hatchback/coupe) and DB8 (4-door sedan) body styles. The throttle body location, intake routing, and mounting points are identical across the two body types.

⚠️ Fitment Note: The original factory page fitment table lists only "GS-R Sedan 4-Door." This is incomplete — the intake pipe, throttle body coupler, and mounting bracket are mechanically identical across all B18-equipped 1994–2001 Integra trims (RS, LS, GS, SE, GS-R) in both coupe and sedan body styles. The B18B1 and B18C1 share the same throttle body flange and intake routing geometry.

1994–2001 Acura Integra 1.8L B18 Cold Air Intake FAQs

Q1: Is this cold air intake legal in my state?

A1: Not legal for sale or use in California (and other CARB-adopting states). This kit does not carry a CARB Executive Order number, and an intake is treated as an emissions-related part in states that follow California's rules. Confirm your state and county requirements before ordering, and keep your factory intake parts if your vehicle may need to pass a visual inspection.

Q2: Will this cold air intake fit my 1994–2001 Acura Integra?

A2: It is an exact-fit application for every 1994, 1995, 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, and 2001 Acura Integra with a factory-style 1.8L B18B1 or B18C1 engine — RS, LS, GS, SE, and GS-R, in the DC2 three-door coupe or hatchback and the DB8 four-door sedan. Before ordering, confirm your engine code, throttle body position, intake routing, and any previous engine-bay modifications.

Q3: Will this intake fit an Integra Type R or a B18-swapped Civic?

A3: No Type R fitment is claimed. The Integra Type R uses the B18C5 engine with a different throttle body, intake manifold, and intake configuration, so do not order this kit for a Type R just because it belongs to the same generation. Fitment is not guaranteed for a B18-swapped Civic either — the pipe is shaped for a factory DC2 or DB8 engine bay, and a swap can move the engine, throttle body, radiator, battery, and wiring, so custom piping, couplers, or brackets may be needed.

Q4: Is this a true cold air intake or a short ram intake?

A4: The open-element cone filter sits high in the engine bay behind the headlight rather than extending down into the bumper or the lower fender area, so the layout is closer to a short ram intake than to a sealed, fender-fed cold air box. In practice that means a shorter airflow path, easier filter access, a stronger induction tone, and less exposure to standing water than a low-mounted long-tube intake.

Q5: How much horsepower will this add, and will I feel it?

A5: The expected output range for this application is approximately 8 to 10 percent more horsepower and torque through the 3,500-6,000 RPM mid-range. Actual results depend on engine condition, intake-air temperature, ECU calibration, exhaust flow, fuel quality, elevation, testing method, and supporting modifications — on a mostly stock B18, the change in throttle response and intake sound is often easier to notice than a peak horsepower number. The larger, smoother pipe and open cone filter are designed to reduce restriction ahead of the throttle body, which is what makes response feel more immediate during rolling acceleration and higher-RPM driving.

Q6: Will a cold air intake improve my fuel economy?

A6: Fuel economy is dominated by driving habits. An intake alone cannot deliver a guaranteed MPG gain, so treat this kit as a throttle-response and induction-tone upgrade rather than a fuel-saving one.

Q7: Will this intake void my warranty?

A7: Under the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, an aftermarket part cannot void your factory warranty unless it is proven to have caused the failure. This kit is designed as a direct bolt-on replacement that keeps the factory sensor and breather connections in use.

Q8: Will it throw a check engine light (CEL)?

A8: A correctly installed intake should not cause a check engine light on its own. This kit is designed to reuse the factory intake-air temperature sensor and the factory vacuum and breather connections, so the engine management sees the inputs it expects. When a light or a rough idle does show up after a swap, the usual causes are a loose throttle-body coupler, an open vacuum or breather port, a disconnected intake-air temperature sensor, damaged wiring, or an intake leak — recheck every hose, clamp, sensor, and sealing surface. For a step-by-step diagnostic, see rough idle after cold air intake installation: the 7-point fix checklist.

Q9: Do I need a tune after installing this intake?

A9: No tune is required for a bolt-on install that keeps the factory sensor and breather connections on a stock B18B1 or B18C1. The factory ECU adapts to the extra airflow on its own, and disconnecting the battery for about 10 minutes resets fuel trims for faster adaptation. A custom tune becomes worthwhile when the intake is combined with camshafts, a larger throttle body, an aftermarket intake manifold, headers, higher compression, larger injectors, or other major modifications.

Q10: Does this kit use an oiled or a dry filter, and how do I clean it?

A10: The included cone filter uses washable, reusable dry media, so filter oil is not required and there is no over-oiling risk to the intake-air temperature sensor. Clean it according to the instructions, let it dry completely before refitting, and confirm it is fully seated and securely clamped to the pipe.

Q11: Will this intake make the B18 or the VTEC crossover sound louder?

A11: Yes. Removing the factory airbox and resonator lets more induction noise reach the cabin, especially at wide-open throttle and higher RPM, and the transition into the VTEC cam profile on a B18C1 GS-R becomes more pronounced. You get a deeper intake tone under acceleration that quiets down at cruise — sound is subjective, and it will not sound like a header, muffler, or cat-back exhaust change.

Q12: Is this intake safe to drive in the rain?

A12: Normal rain and wet-road driving are fine — the filter sits high in the engine bay, so it stays clear of spray as long as the hood and inner fender protection are intact. The system is not waterproof, though. Avoid deep standing water and flooded roads, because any intake can pull water into the engine if its filter or opening becomes submerged, and water ingestion can cause hydrolock and severe engine damage.

Q13: What's included in the box, and what do I still need?

A13: The kit ships with the mandrel-bent intake pipe, the high-flow dry cone filter, the reinforced silicone throttle body coupler, three stainless steel hose clamps, a mounting bracket with bolts and washers, and installation instructions. You supply basic hand tools — 10 mm and 12 mm sockets plus a flathead screwdriver for the clamps — and the factory intake-air temperature sensor and breather hose are reused, not replaced.

Q14: How difficult is it to install this Acura Integra intake?

A14: It is a straightforward bolt-on that typically takes about 30 to 60 minutes with basic hand tools. Remove the factory airbox, snorkel, and resonator box, connect the new pipe to the throttle body with the silicone coupler and stainless clamps, reconnect the sensor and breather hose, secure the mounting bracket, and attach the filter. Before driving, confirm the pipe clears the hood, battery, wiring, radiator hose, and any moving components, and recheck every clamp after the first test drive.

Q15: Is the intake pipe actually red?

A15: Yes. This is the red version of the Integra intake kit, with a red powder-coated mandrel-bent aluminum pipe built to stand out in the engine bay. The finish is cosmetic and does not change fitment or how the intake works. Inspect the coating periodically for damage from contact with nearby bodywork or engine components.